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Do it Yourself:

APPLYING VC-17
Submitted by Pete Matthews - Great Lakes Interlux Representative

VC-17 is one of the easiest antifouling paints to apply, and
to maintain. But like any other antifouling system, there
are some things that have to be done both at the initial
application and as part of an annual maintenance program.

There are three basic application situations that will be
encountered. I'll take them one at a time.

First is the new application. This means applying VC-17 to
a new boat or a boat that has recently had a different
antifouling system on it that has been removed. Essentially
a clean fiberglass hull. If it's a new hull, it must be
dewaxed completely to remove any residual mold release wax.
This should be done with the Interlux 202 Solvent Wash. We
recommend using a two-rag system. One to put the solvent on
the hull, another to wipe it clean. Change both rags
frequently and remember not to dip the application rag back
into the solvent container, thereby contaminating it. When
you're done with the entire hull, take a hose or container
of water and wet down portions of the hull. If the water
beads up, there's still wax on the hull and the process
must be repeated. Failure to remove the wax can prevent the
paint adhering to the hull. Also please note, this must be
done before sanding the hull so as not to imbed the wax in
the gelcoat during the sanding process. When you are sure
you've removed all the wax from the hull, the next step is
to sand the entire surface to be painted with VC-17. This is
a must. You must abrade the hull to provide a profile for
the paint to stick to. Failure to do so can result in the
paint detaching from the hull. The hull should be sanded
with 180 grit sandpaper, 220 at the finest. After sanding
wipe the hull down with 202 Solvent Wash again to remove
sanding residue. Some boat manufacturers aren't in favor of
sanding hulls because they feel this may increase the
likelihood of osmotic blistering. I know of no evidence to
support this, but it is the manufacturers warranty. In this
case there has been some success reported using a coarse
Scotch Brite Pad to scrub the hull. This can be done with
the 202 Solvent wash. You must be sure to leave a visible
scratch in the gelcoat. I'd have to say that I feel this
would provide minimal adhesion at best and I can't recommend
the system even though I know it's done. After cleaning and
abrading the surface, you're ready to apply the paint. Pick
a day that isn't raining, and is above 50 degrees F. You'll
notice that under the hat on the VC-17 can there is a bag
of copper. This must be mixed into the paint. Please be
careful doing this as the copper is very fine and will fly
around. (Perhaps a good time for a paper sanding mask) This
is what provides the antifouling. You'll notice the can is
short filled to allow you to add the copper and stir it in
without spilling. This does NOT mean that the can should be
filled with a solvent. This is not the case. Only in rare
cases should any antifouling paint be thinned and in the
case of VC-17, almost never. The paint is best applied with
a roller or by spray, IF the yard you're in allows
spraying. Please check with the yard manager about this. If
you can and do choose to spray, contact your Interlux
representative for details. If you're going to roll, any
solvent resistant foam or short nap roller cover will work.
The recommended system is to start from the bottom of the
hull or keel, and roll upwards. Do not over roll or attempt
to "smooth" the paint out. It's self-leveling and will do
that itself. Just make one pass up to the waterline tape
then start over at the bottom. Keep the roller well filled
with paint, but not to the point that it runs off onto the
ground, or your arm. A word of caution, This paint dries
very quickly. Do not pour the entire can into the tray. It
will evaporate. Poor in just enough to fill the roller, then
add more to the tray when you need to refill the roller.
Work your way around the boat working back to the place you
started. During an initial application, ALWAYS apply two
coats. The second coat can be applied after the first coat
has dried, about a half an hour under most conditions.
Remove the tape and the boat can be launched about a
half-hour after painting.

Second application type - you already have VC-17 on the
boat. Reapplication is one of the joys of this product.
Assuming the boat was pressure washed and stored relatively
clean, all that is required is to wipe the hull down with a
damp rag to remove any dust or particles that may be on the
hull. Inspect the bottom to insure there are no abrasions
or flaking spots. If there are, these can and should be
touched up lightly with 180 grit on a sanding pad. Just
feather in the affected area, wipe to remove any dust and
repaint. There is no need to sand the entire hull, in fact,
it's not recommended. If you do, there is a danger of
sanding through, which would require applying two coats
again. Applying the paint is the same as above described
procedure and once again, the boat can be launched in about
one half-hour. That's all there is to it!

The third instance. Applying VC-17 over an epoxy barrier
coat. It is not true, by the way, that VC-17 can only be
applied over VC Tar. While it certainly can be, it goes on
over Interprotect Epoxy barrier coats just as well. In this
case apply the barrier coat according to the instructions.
After applying the last coat of tar or epoxy, follow the
instruction for applying the first coat of antifouling
without sanding (called "hot" or "wet on wet" coating) in
the case of VC Tar or Interprotect 2000E/2001E. In the case
of Interprotect 3000/3001, you must let the epoxy harden
and sand with 180 just as though it were a new hull. Please
be sure you're reading the correct times for applying
antifouling paints (not another coat of epoxy, they're
different). The second coat of VC-17 can be applied when
the first has dried, again, about a half an hour. Words of
caution here, If you have just applied a barrier coat,
please do not launch the boat in a half-hour. Please allow
the epoxy to cure for as long as possible before launching.
(A week perhaps.) This is especially important in the case
of VC Tar as this product takes a long time to cure and
lifting the boat too soon can cause the straps to distort
the tar at lifting points. Maintenance after this is just
the same as described above.

And that's all there is to it. While it doesn't achieve the
boating Nirvana we all look for, the bottom that never has
to be worked on, it does come about as close as chemistry
will allow us in this day and age.

For any questions, Contact Trisailing.com, your local
Interlux rep, or call the help line at 1-800 INTRLUX.